If you have a Nissan Quest, in my case I have a 2005 Nissan Quest, one day the engine start stalling and service engine light came on with a bunch of other like the TCS SLIP. Then when I tried to start the engine again, it cranked for a very long time but it does start and probably safe to drive for short distance like home or automotive shop.
When I plug in the odb2 scanners and scan it, I get error codes like the P0340 P0345 and these tied to the camshaft position sensors. Sometime only one, not all will have error. However it’s best to replace all three, because when one died the rest will follow. Do not buy from cheap OEM chinese made especially with cheap price like $20 to $50 for all three set, you’re taking chances 50/50 will work and does not work for long. Get the original one made by nissan, go to the dealership and order it it, sure it will cost you $300 or so, but it’s nissan original not the cheap oem.
You can replace these on your own, no special tools needed. There are a bunch of youtube videos on how to replace these sensors.
Camshaft Position Sensor Part Number (for Bank 2 / near radiator)
Camshaft Position Sensor Part Number (for Bank 1 / near firewall)
Part No.: 23731-AL606
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
fixed nissan quest error code p0340 p0345 p0020
If you have a 2005 Nissan Quest, and on your dashboard, the Brake Light and Battery light flashing on/off not consistently, it mean your battery is not charging.
Your battery is not charging it could be one of the top two problem. Your Battery is bad or your Alternator is bad.
If you’re on the road, stop by the next nearest auto store such as Autozone, AdvancedAuto, Kragen, whatever … even auto repair garage shop although they may charge you a fee for diagnosing the problem.
There’s a device that can quickly check your Battery or Alternator problem on every auto parts store or auto repair shop garage. They can check it, the process takes 5mins the most, and it should tell your whether your battery is bad or your alternator is bad.
Most likely your battery is bad, if you have it over 3 years or so and depend on the load, quality or weather. Mine said battery bad, replaced it and it’s been good.
If it’s alternator problem, it’s not a good idea to drive at night time, or driving while using anything that can drain the battery. Go home if you can and replace the alternator. If you’re far away or in the middle of no where, try to get to the nearest auto repair shop and get the alternator replaced. It may take a whole day, so prepare to wait or go somewhere and come back.
I still have a 2005 Nissan Quest family car, and I’ve been doing my own maintenance. It has 103K miles on it, and I think it’s to replace the spark plugs, but I think that will be painful. Anyhow, the latest maintenance I did was replacing the brake pad. After putting on a new brake pads, all four wheels, it started to make screeching noise when I applied the brake at certain point, somewhere in the middle of the pedal, not when it’s completely down or at the beginning. Also sometime the steering wheel shake violently back and forth, I mean I can feel it.
I did some research, and it appears that because my brake disc and rotors surface isn’t matching with the brake pad surface. People recommend when I replace the brake pad, I may need to consider resurfacing the brake disc and rotor also especially it has over 100k miles on it, the disc and rotor surface doesn’t align with the new brake pad. Also it’s best to also use grease on all metal contact.
I think resurface cost like $25 a piece, so if four pieces then it’s like $100, I think I can get new disc and rotors for the same price, why resurface it 🙂 LOL.
I ended up purchased cheap AM parts I think, and replaced all four wheels brake rotors and disc, with the new brake pad, it work wonderfully, no noise at all, and the steering is smooth, no vibration or shaking when driving or braking.
I have a 2005 Nissan Quest with 103K miles on it. It’s making a lot of “won …won …won …won …won …won …” noise or sound when driving, doesn’t matter what speed. I did some research and confirmed it’s the Wheel Bearing. I purchased both front pair and back pair for about $150 in ebay, probably made in China or cheap brand, well now a day anything made in China anyways. Beside my 2005 model is over 10 years old, why spend a ton of money.
However I started to work on replacing the Wheel Bearing, I noticed the Wheel Bearing is seized. I tried whatever methods were recommended including using Liquid Wrench, Slide Hammer, Knock with hammer, for several hours. Nothing work. So in the end what work for me was a $2 nut and bolt from Homedepot did the trick. Here’s I did it.
- Knock out of the wheel stud screw with a hammer.
- Get a nut and bolt from local Homedepot that fit your wheel stud hole.
- Screw in the nut bolt and push the Wheel Bearing, you may want to repeat the process top and bottom, until you can pry it out. Be careful not to damage the axle gear to the Wheel Bearing.
I’m sure you can use this same methods for many other model cars without spending a ton of money on liquid wrench, slide hammer, special tools, and so on. Just $2 will do the trick. 🙂